Table of Contents
Bagdad, California by Ken Swank
Bagdad Fades Into the Desert (From the Los Angeles Times, January
31, 1991)
Historic Formosa Cafe (From theLos Angeles Times, March 29, 1991)
Azusa Welcomes Route 66 Travelers
Giovanni Tours on Route 66
Nuggets From Needles by Maggie McShan
Trip To Needles A Classic From the (Needles Desert Star)
BAGDAD, CALIFORNIA, by Ken Swank
The BAGHDAD in Iraq translates in the Persian language to mean "God has
given." The California BAGDAD as applied by the railroad to its station, and the
town, probably had the "H" dropped in order to give as much brevity as possible
to Morse Code telegraph transmissions.
Bagdad and Route 66 came close to missing one another. The town’s heyday began a
century and a few years ago and boomed along through the mid-twenties. About the time that
Cyrus Avery and other civic leaders of the mid-western states began boosting the highway
the town began fading back into the Mojave desert.
By the mid-30s the fortunes of Route 66 had ascended to make it a hard road from
Chicago to Santa Monica and it began gathering the traffic of the eight states that it
crossed.
By 1937 Bagdad had lost its post office, the mines were working the last of the lodes,
Fred Harvey’s restaurant had closed and most of the miners and saloon keepers and
merchants had gone. The Santa Fe’s depot was still open with an agent to handle the
few carloads of ore still moving to the smelter. Steam engines still slipped under the
water tank to top off the tender for the long Ash Hill grade between there and Ludlow.
As Route 66 gathered to the task of transporting trucks and taxis and tourists’
tin lizzies to and fro, so too did Bagdad experience a modest upswing of its economy as
the travelers required gasoline and water for overheated radiators and food to fortify
themselves for the continuing journey.
Along came the second world war with its gasoline rationing to toll the bell for the
town’s tourist industry. When the interstate bypassed long stretches of Route 66 to
strand most of the towns Bagdad had long since folded its tent and stolen away.
The recent military operation revived a brief interest in the name and some attempts to
locate the town. But it is hard to find. Some crumbling paving outlines the network of
abandoned streets. The debris of abandonment litters across the townsite. Bagdad is but a
railroad siding sign.
Bagdad, California and old Route 66 now lie together almost forgotten but by you and I.
BAGDAD FADES INTO THE DESERT – IN CALIFORNIA
(from The Los Angeles Times, January 31, 1991.
Ever since Iraq invaded Kuwait, curious motorists passing through the Mojave Desert
have stopped to ask the way to Bagdad, the California ghost town named in the 1800s for
the Middle Eastern capital
"Every day they come into our gas station or restaurant and ask, ‘Where is
Bagdad? We can’t find it," said Buster Burris, 81, owner of the town of Amboy,
population 27, eight miles east of where maps indicate Bagdad is located.
Burris tells them Bagdad is but a memory these days. Situated in the middle of the
desert, Bagdad is 75 miles southeast of Barstow on old Route 66 in a long valley between
the Bristol and Bullion mountains.
Today, its only inhabitants are snakes, lizards, scorpions, pack rats and an assortment
of other wildlife. There’s a lone palm tree, half a dozen scraggly salt cedars and a
scattering of sagebrush growing in the desert sand.
Bagdad has always been one of the driest places in the United States. It recorded the
longest period of drought anywhere in the history of the country from July 1912 to
November 1914: 767 consecutive days without precipitation.
There is an eerie quiet here that is broken from time to time by the 30 to 40 trains
that rumble through Bagdad each day.
In 1883, railroad officials who dubbed two nearby settlements Siberia and Klondike
named this desert town after the Iraqi capital, omitting the "H" in a divergent
spelling for the city on the Tigris. As many as 50 Chinese railroad workers died while
laying tracks, falling victim to a cholera epidemic. An unmarked burial ground is believed
to be somewhere nearby.
A "Bagdad" sign, along the mainline Santa Fe tracks marks the site of the
town that boomed from the late 1800s through the early 1900s, finally gasping its last
breath in the late 1960s.
Bagdad was an important railhead, a watering place for railroad engines during steam
days and a center for nearby gold, silver, copper and lava mining camps—for mines
such as the Orange Blossom, War Eagle and Lady Lou.
There were homes, saloons and stores, a post office from 1889 to 1923, a school, a
passenger railway station and a Harvey House restaurant. By the 1940s, however, all that
remained was the depot, a few homes, the Bagdad Café, a gas station and cabins for
overnight stays on U.S. 66.
Its population dwindled from a few hundred during its heyday to fewer than 20 in the
mid-1940s when Paul Limon worked here pumping gas at 23 cents a gallon. Limon, now 63,
lives in Cadiz, 20 miles east of Bagdad. He recalled the town as he knew it during the
1940s and 1950s.
"Bagdad was a lively little place. People from all over the desert would come hee
because of the Bagdad Café, owned and operated by a woman named Alice Lawrence. The
Bagdad Café was the only place for miles around with a dance floor and juke box.
"The Bagdad Café was a happy-go-lucky, popular spot. When I hear or read about
the war in the Persian Gulf and Baghad is mentioned, I think about Bagdad, California, and
all the good times I had in this town," Limon said during a sentimental visit here.
Many who drove U.S. 66, America’s main street from the midwest to California will
remember Bagdad, allowed Limon.
"Overheated cars in those days were always boiling over. And a lot of those people
ate in the Bagdad Café."
In fact, the town served as the original inspiration for the 1988 movie and subsequent
television program, ‘Bagdad Café"—which was actually filmed at the
Sidewinder Café in Newberry Springs, 40 miles to the northwest.
Bagdad was bypassed in 1972 when Interstate 40 opened 20 miles to the north and the
two-lane stretch of Route 66 through here became a deserted, seldom-used road. But Bagdad
had died years before the freeway opened. And the café, depot and what few structures
remained were destroyed by vandals.
A network of dirt streets outline the town that was. Two speed-limits signs—15
mph—still stand. Concrete building foundations, rusted automotive parts, mining
equipment and pipes, shattered glass and dinnerware, old pots and pans and other debris
litter the area.
"This is where the Bagdad Café and gas station were," said Limon, standing
on what is left of the eatery—the front steps.
He drove over the dirt streets to the old Bagdad Cemetery, a handful of graves marked
with weathered crosses with names no longer legible. Signs were evident that grave robbers
had recently desecrated the final resting place of Bagdad residents who died here in the
late 1800s and early 1900s.
THERE’S MORE TO CALIFORNIA’S ROUTE 66 THAN THE DESERT. IT GOES THROUGH
WEST HOLLYWOOD, TOUCHING THE HISTORIC FORMOSA CAFÉ. (From Los Angeles Times,
March 29, 1991)
- Landmarks: a studio’s plan to flatten a favored haunt of the stars to put up a
parking structure has prompted protest. Owner Lem Quon, though, has already scripted a
happy ending. Lem Quon, the 81-year old owner of the Formosa Cae, is talking old times:
- The time Elvis Presley paid a bar tab with a check that Quon was tempted to keep as a
souvenir;
- The time Howard Hughes borrowed $20 to settle a debt with a drinking buddy;
- The time when Bono, lead singer of the rock group U2, phoned Quon and said: "Lem,
we’ve got to save the Formosa."
- If there’s one thing Quon and the Formosa have, it’s friends—stars,
politicians and hipsters who are fighting to keep the venerable Hollywood landmark from
being flattened by Warner Bros. Hollywood Studios to make way for a parking structure.
Warner Bros. owns the land and the building, but the contents, which include crates of
Hollywood memorabilia, belong to Quon, as does the 1902 red trolley car that doubles as
the restaurant’s Star Dining Room
Back in February when Warner Bros. announced its expansion plans, café regulars united
as the "Friends of the Formosa". They protested, garnered more than 2000
signatures on petitions and asked the city of West Hollywood to declare the restaurant a
cultural and historical landmark, which would save it from a wrecking ball.
The Cultural Heritage Advisory Board voted unanimously to do just that and the City
Council will make the final decision. Meanwhile, the studio has extended Formosa’s
lease until the end of May. For now, says Quon, "This is still my Formosa, so
I’ll keep coming."
Quon quietly sinks into his corner booth, which was once Ava Gardner’s favorite
banquette, shaking hands with guests and pointing a flashlight to a star’s publicity
photos when asked if Lana Turner, Clark Gable, Pearl Bailey or Ava Gardner really dined
there. Of course, the Hollywood celebrities did more than eat dinner.
Lana Turner danced in the aisles. Clark Gable handed out lousy tips. And Pearl Bailey
belted out a torch song or two. As for Ava Gardner—well, just mention her name and
Quon melts like a teenager in love. "She used to sit right there," he recalls,
pointing to a spot across the booth. Directly above is a photograph of the glamorous
Gardner. "She was a beautiful lady. We would talk and share stories. She was a good
friend. She took care of her sick sister, you know," he says.
And the hangout that serves up Cantonese cuisine amid a gallery of close to 1000
glossies still has that star attraction. Quon’s first scrapbook, which is locked away
for safekeeping, includes greetings from Marilyn Monroe, John Wayne, Clark Gable and other
Hollywood heavyweights.
The café also attracts the starry-eyed and regular folk are just as welcome to sit at
the Formosa’s primo booth: Marilyn’s, of course. During World War II Quon joined
the army and worked as a cook. After his army stint, his job as a cook didn’t last
long: the restaurant’s lease expired soon after he arrived.
Enter the Formosa Café.
Former prizefighter Jimmy Bernstein was operating the café when he hired Quon to head
his kitchen. Bernstein purchased the red trolley car in 1925 for use as a luncheon counter
and called it the Red Post. Later, he added the main dining room, bar and kitchen and
changed the name to the Formosa Café. Because of the café’s location across the
street from United Artists, it also became a popular watering hole and luncheonette for
movie stars. Bacall, Bogart, Ball,. They all came to the Formosa. In 1945, Quon became
Bernstein’s partner. "I ran the kitchen and he ran the front," Quon says.
"When Jimmy died 15years ago, I became the sole owner." His stepson, William
Jung is now a partner. "But I’m still in control, except for the land we sit on.
I don’t control that. The big movies studio does that."
But Quon has no regrets. He’s looking around for other sites for the Formosa if
necessary. If that happens, he says, he’ll strip the walls, pack up his mini-museum
of Hollywood kitsch, unplug the Oriental lamps, yank out the red leatherette booths,
remove the padded green leather doors and start fresh elsewhere.
But he hopes that won’t happen. He wants to stay where he has been a permanent
fixture for almost half a century.
"I never look down on people," Quon says while turning his head toward the
bar where a crowd is watching the Oscar telecast. "Here at the Formosa, we always
make small people feel like big stars. We are all the same."
Quon slowly slides out of his booth and walks over to the bar, his eyes fixed on the TV
screen. Gregory Peck is standing next to Sophia Loren. Quon chuckles to himself, and
then—to no one in particular—says out loud: "He’s been here, Gregory
Peck."
They’ve all been here.
AZUSA’S BIG WELCOME FOR TRAVELERS ON HISTORIC ROUTE 66
Arranged by the California Historic Route 66 Association and oozing nostalgia, 29
lovers of the old Route 66 were greeted in Azusa for welcome home party for the Giovanni
Tour Bus.
The travelers assembled in Chicago, exploring along remaining portions of Route 66 from
Chicago to Santa Monica. There were frequent stops at place of interest.
Giovanni DiPonzio, tour leader and member of California Historic Route 66 Association,
was on KMPC’s Robert W Morgan Show each morning of the tour, reporting on their
experiences and identifying the association as sponsoring the tour. A member of the
association boarded the bus in Needles and explained the many historical points of
interest as they drove along the old road.
The tour bus, with a police escort and a parade of vintage cars reached Azusa and was
overwhelmed by the community’s gala party awaiting them with cheers of the assembled
townspeople, selections from the high school jazz band, welcome speeches from community
leaders and refreshments provided by Carl’s Jr, McDonalds, cookies from the Chamber
of Commerce, and the city’s popcorn machine.
The CHR66A gave Giovanni a plaque thanking him for helping in the rehabilitation of
Route 66 and its facilities for travelers.
GIOVANNI TOURS ON ROUTE 66, by Giovanni DiPonzio
Route 66 is alive and well, living in country roads, quaint towns and bustling cities.
And we plan to visit it all on August 31, 1991. We hope you can encourage other Route 66
enthusiasts to come along with us. The enclosed brochure explains it all. If you have any
questions please feel free to call our CHR66A Association office: 714/593-4046. Please be
reminded that since space is limited, all registrations and deposits will be accepted on a
first come basis.
CALIFORNIA NUGGETS from NEEDLES by Maggie McShan
"Gateway to The Colorado River" has been approved by powers-that-be as the
official permanent slogan for our sunny City of Needles. It follows many others, such as
"Santa Wears a Sunsuit", and "California’s Outback".
"Gateway to California" was the most enduring one and my favorite, but with
recreation coming into the limelight, there is much emphasis on the river.
I believe that interest in California Historic Route 66 is destined to run neck to neck
in popularity with the river. The Mother Road has always been important here, particularly
in the tragic ‘30s which brought many of us to California, and inspired Steinbeck to
call California the "land of milk and honey". From my "house by the side of
the road" -- Route 66 of course! – I can affirm from the bumper to bumper
traffic on I-40, (child of 66), that the gateway is still important, indeed.
We had one of the very first, if not the first cabin court on the old road right
here in Needles. It was called Carty’s Camp, and would you believe, some of those
cabins are still standing? Boarded up of course, but yours truly is busy badgering the
owners to restore them, or at the very least, replace them with replicas.
I’ve talked to the owners of the 66 Motel, which is next to the old cabin court,
and urged them to convert some of their units back to overnighters. Presently they only
have regulars. These nice folks are from Finland. They run the motel as a family business,
and I have visited with Alina Paakkanen, the mother, and her son and daughter, Marjut, and
Markku. They too, would like to see the historic cabins next door restored, or rebuilt in
keeping with what they once were.
There is tremendous interest in that location, at the east side of Needles, being one
of the most historic Route 66 sites in this area. Someone even said. "Mr. Joad, of Grapes
of Wrath, stayed in one of those cabins!" Well! Really! But maybe Steinbeck did.
As your Needles historian I am busy trying to log mileage and document every inch of
the old road from Needles to Topcock, the river crossing, and friends are helping. Nearly
all the old trail through here can still be toured, and what wonderful history it has! Any
memorabilia would be helpful. For instance, who knows about Teapot Dome?
Bob Dressel, ye host at Hungry Bear Restaurant which is located right on the original
Route 66 and which is one of our first business members is planning a display of enlarged
old Route 66 photographs for the dining room, and I am assisting him in rounding up
suitable pictures.
Another business member, L. J. Motors, owned and managed jointly by Jerry Lewis and Don
Johnson is located on a virgin portion of old 66, with the street now called Broadway.
They are the friendly GM dealers and have offered amenities of their shop and vast
showroom for some of the Fun-Runs we plan to have.
Enthusiasm is growing by leaps and bounds, and I will try to pass on the news from time
to time. ‘Bye ‘bye for now.à
TRIP TO NEEDLES A CLASSIC, from the Needles Desert Star
Ken McPherson first visited Needles as an eight-year old. His dad, Wiley McPherson,
purchased a used 1939 Buick Century sedan to being his family west from Evanston, Ill.
In 1944 the McPherson family, Kenny, his father, mother Grace and sister Karen, arrived
in Needles while traveling the famous Route 66 to Pasadena.
"I sat in the front and my mother and sister sat in the back,," McPherson
recalled. The trip took eight days.
Here in Needles, the McPhersons stayed overnight at the old El Rancho Motel. On Friday
– 47 years after his family stayed here – Ken McPherson, now a wholesale
distributor for an electronics firm in Burbank, returned to Needles driving his dad’s
1939 Buick.
McPherson said his recollection of Needles through the eyes of an eight-year-old was
the memory of a little park near the Santa Fe train station. His return visit Friday was
in conjunction with the CHR66A meeting in Needles. McPherson is a member of the group and
also a member of the Buick Car Club of America.
McPherson plans to visit again. He would like to see Route 66 preserved. à
